Day 6 - Tsomgo Lake & Baba Mandir

We were ready by 8 AM after having breakfast, but the cab came 15 minutes late. Also, we got to know that permit hadn't been done yesterday & we had to get on the way. Also that Nathu-la would be closed on Mondays & Tuesdays, we would be getting permit only to Tsomgo Lake & Baba Mandir.

We waited for nearly 20 mins in a huge parking area to get the permit done by our driver. Once we got the permit, we began our long journey to Tsomgo lake. When asked why the permit was required, the driver told that as it was Indian Border restricted area & maintained by Army, one cannot go there without valid permit.

Tsomgo lake, or Changu lake as is popular, is about 35 kms from Gangtok on the Gangtok-Nathula highway which forms a part of the old trade route from India to China. For a few kms, the road was tarred and good. But when the army area arrived, the tar turned to mud & stones. The path was very rugged & narrow, allowing only 1 vehicle in a direction at a time. Sometimes, slow moving huge army trucks interrupted causing big jam on either side. The vehicle carrying tourists had to be strong enough, one error from the driver would cost lives. This had been the most dangerous route we had travelled, more dangerous than that of Darjeeling to Pelling. Very adventurous & holding our breath every time we encountered a rock. We were just praying that the tyres don’t burst!

We finally completed the tiresome 35 km ride in approx 3.5 hours and arrived at Changu Lake. This lake is situated at a height of 12,000 ft & we were awestruck seeing the lake. Heaven on Earth! Pictures speak louder than words..

The driver suggested we visit Baba Mandir first & then come back and visit Changu lake, as the Mandir was further uphill and road repairs were going on in that area. We agreed and without getting down from the cab proceeded further to Baba Mandir, which was 15 kms from Changu lake.

Our way was covered with snow on either side & it was a pleasant drive all thru and took about an hour. We had finally drove thru the Himalayas. For her it was the first time, & second time for me.

Baba Mandir is situated at a height of 13,500 ft. This Mandir is built by army in memory of Baba Harbajan Singh who went missing from this place. At this place there were many water bottles & accessories of other soldiers also. There was a sweet kept there as Prasad, & it was very tasty. I was surprised to see an Union Bank of India ATM at this place!

After spending some time there, we headed back towards Changu Lake. It took almost the same time to reach the Lake. The driver asked us to get down and take a walk beside the lake & spend time as much we want & to come over at the other side where shops were located. The weather was sunny but cold wind blew thru out, so had to take out our gloves, jerkins & monkey caps as well. We felt we were on heaven. The ice had just begun to melt. Its said that this lake would be frozen in winter & would have water in summer. We went in the mid season where both ice & water were there. Totally blissful to view this. As I said, a picture is worth a thousand words..

After playing in snow & taking numerous snaps, our hands were turning black & we had to leave the place. We went to the shop on the other side, had 2 plates of hot Maggi as lunch. Maggi was really awesome for this weather.

We then proceeded to return back to Gangtok. The return journey almost took the same time & by this time the clouds had begun to engulf us. We finally crash landed at our hotel by around 6 PM, took rest, had dinner & slept off. Totally exhausted by the drive. But what a day it was!

We had to get ready by 8:30 the next day to leave Gangtok, following the 9 - 6 no tourist vehicle rule. The plan for the next 2 days had changed, as we got to know that there was a day long strike being called on Thursday in Darjeeling district & hence we couldn't stay back in Kalimpong on Wednesday as per the itinerary. The tour operator had booked a room at Siliguri instead & advised to do the day tour of Kalimpong the next day & go to Siliguri.